In cosmetic formulations, emulsifiers are the ‘invisible architects,’ playing a crucial role in seamlessly blending oil and water—two immiscible substances—to form a stable emulsion system. From creams and lotions to serums and masks, high-quality emulsifiers not only determine the physical form of the product but also directly influence the release of active ingredients and skin absorption efficiency.
Classification and Mechanism of Action of Emulsifiers
Cosmetic emulsifiers are primarily categorised into four main types: anionic (e.g., stearic acid soap), cationic (e.g., quaternary ammonium salts), non-ionic (e.g., polysorbate esters), and natural (e.g., lecithin). Non-ionic emulsifiers, known for their low irritation and high compatibility, have become mainstream. For example, the combination of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate forms a tight liquid crystal structure, preventing oil and water separation while enhancing the transdermal absorption efficiency of active ingredients. Natural emulsifiers like sodium oleoyl glutamate, leveraging their biocompatibility advantages, are widely used in products for sensitive skin care.
How emulsifiers enhance product efficacy
The choice of emulsifier directly impacts product texture and efficacy expression. For example, emulsifiers using microemulsion technology (such as C12-20 alkyl glucoside) can form nano-sized emulsion droplets with a particle size of less than 0.1 μm, significantly improving the uniform dispersion of sunscreens and antioxidants, thereby enhancing UV protection efficacy. In anti-ageing products, liposome-encapsulated emulsifiers (such as phosphatidylcholine) can precisely deliver active ingredients like peptides and hyaluronic acid to the dermis layer, with experiments showing their penetration rate is three times higher than traditional systems.
Safety and industry trends
With the rise of the ‘clean beauty’ concept, emulsifiers derived from natural sources and free of PEGs and preservatives have become a research hotspot. The EU Regulation EC 1223/2009 has restricted the use of 26 allergenic emulsifiers, driving the industry toward a more gentle formulation trend. Our non-ionic emulsifier series is certified by Ecocert, with coconut-based glucoside as a representative example, achieving a biodegradability rate of 98%, suitable for infant care, organic skincare, and other high-end segments.
As a professional raw material supplier, we offer comprehensive emulsifier solutions for all types of emulsions, including O/W (oil-in-water), W/O (water-in-oil), and multi-phase emulsions (W/O/W). All products have undergone skin patch testing and stability verification.