Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) – a retinoic acid ester that directly activates RAR receptors. Liposomal encapsulated (50‑300 nm) for water solubility, stability, and deep skin penetration. Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles, clear acne, and brighten hyperpigmentation without the harsh side effects of retinol.
Product Overview:
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a novel retinoid ester derived from retinoic acid and hydroxypinacolone. Unlike retinol (which requires two enzymatic conversion steps to become active), HPR directly binds to retinoic acid receptors (RAR) in the skin, triggering anti‑aging, cell‑renewing, and anti‑inflammatory pathways immediately. This results in:
Higher efficacy – comparable to retinoic acid, but with superior tolerability.
Faster action – no conversion delay.
Lower irritation – significantly less redness, peeling, and stinging than retinol.
However, HPR is sensitive to light/air and poorly soluble in water. NK‑L1011 overcomes these limitations using phospholipid liposome encapsulation (50‑300 nm particles). The technology provides:
✅ Water solubility – enables use in clear serums, toners, and masks.
✅ Enhanced stability – protects HPR from oxidation and photodegradation.
✅ Deep skin penetration – liposomes fuse with the stratum corneum, delivering HPR to target cells.
✅ Sustained release & reduced irritation – controlled delivery minimises sensitivity.
| Benefit | Mechanism |
|---|---|
| ✨ Anti‑aging & wrinkle reduction | Stimulates collagen synthesis; reduces MMP‑1 (collagen degradation); thickens epidermis |
| 🧴 Acne & oil control | Regulates sebum production; promotes desquamation; unclogs pores – reduces comedones and inflammatory acne |
| 💡 Whitening & even tone | Inhibits tyrosinase; accelerates melanin turnover; reduces post‑inflammatory hyperpigmentation (melasma, acne marks) |
| 🛡️ Barrier repair | Promotes keratinocyte differentiation; increases epidermal thickness; strengthens stratum corneum |
| 🔬 Up to 10× more stable than retinol | Liposomal protection; resists degradation during storage |
| 🌿 Gentle & well‑tolerated | Safe for eye area; no peeling or redness at recommended dosages |
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Product code | NK‑L1011 |
| INCI (principal) | Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl‑10 Myristate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, 1,2‑Hexanediol |
| Appearance | Light yellow to yellow transparent viscous liquid |
| Odour | Slight characteristic |
| pH (3% solution) | 4.5 – 7.5 |
| Solubility | Water‑soluble (disperses to clear or slightly hazy) |
| Active HPR content | 2.0 – 2.5% |
| Liposome size | 50 – 300 nm |
| Heavy metals | ≤10 ppm (Pb); As ≤2 ppm |
| Microbial limits | <200 cfu/ml; no pathogens |
| Recommended dosage | 0.5 – 5.0% (0.5‑1% for daily maintenance; 2‑5% for intensive treatment) |
| Addition method | Add at <45°C (cool‑down phase) |
| Packaging | Opaque, airtight container (aluminium bottle) |
| Storage | 5‑25°C, sealed, dark; refrigerate (4‑5°C) after opening; use within 1 month |
| Shelf life | 2 years unopened |
Clinical & Supporting Data:
Irritation patch test: 0.5% HPR showed significantly less irritation than 0.5% retinol (24h closed patch).
Wrinkle improvement (14 days, 0.2% HPR): Visible reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.
Melasma improvement (3 months, combination therapy): Marked reduction in hyperpigmentation (clinical study, Ramon y Cajal Hospital, Madrid).
Gene expression: HPR upregulates collagen and extracellular matrix genes via RAR binding.
Why Formulators Choose NK‑L1011:
✅ Direct‑acting retinoid – no conversion steps, faster results.
✅ Liposomal encapsulation – water‑soluble, stable, non‑crystalline.
✅ High efficacy, low irritation – ideal for sensitive skin and eye area.
✅ Multifunctional – anti‑aging, acne, whitening, barrier repair.
✅ Easy to formulate – simply add to water phase at <45°C.
Formulation Guidelines:
Dosage: 0.5 – 5.0% (1‑2% for general anti‑aging; 3‑5% for intensive acne/spot treatment).
Addition: Add to water phase during cool‑down (<45°C). Avoid high heat.
Packaging: Use opaque, airtight packaging (airless pump, aluminium tube) to protect from light/air.
Compatibility: Pair with tocopherol (vitamin E) or BHT as antioxidant. Avoid strong acids/peels in same formula.
Applications:
NK‑L1011 – The liposomal HPR that delivers retinoid power without the pain.