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The effects and benefits of GHK-Cu on the skin, and its application in cosmetics

The effects and benefits of GHK-Cu on the skin, and its application in cosmetics 1
Chinese aliases: Tripeptide; Glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine
English name: Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine
English aliases: Glycyl-histidyl-lysine; Copper glycyl-histidyl-lysine; Copper(II)ghk; Gly-his-lys; Glycylhistidyllysine; Iamin; NSC 379527; N(2)-(N-Glycyl-L-histidyl)-L-lysine
CAS: 130120-57-9
GHK-Cu (Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine-Copper), often called "blue copper peptide," is a naturally occurring copper-binding peptide in human plasma. It has become a notable ingredient in cosmetics for its multifaceted skin benefits, primarily through its role in supporting tissue repair and remodeling

Core Mechanisms of Action

The primary value of GHK-Cu lies in its ability to influence gene expression and cellular activities to favor tissue regeneration and counteract aging. Its key actions include
  • Gene Expression Modulation: It helps restore healthier gene activity patterns associated with youth and repair.

  • Boosting Structural Proteins: It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin, and other essential components of the skin's extracellular matrix.

  • Promoting Cellular Repair: It attracts repair cells (like macrophages and fibroblasts) to damaged areas and encourages the proliferation of skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts).

Documented Skin Benefits of GHK-Cu

Based on scientific studies and clinical observations, the topical application of GHK-Cu offers several confirmed benefits:
Benefit Category Key Effects & Evidence
Anti-Aging & Firming In controlled studies on aged skin, GHK-Cu was shown to tighten skin, improve elasticity and firmness, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. This is linked to its stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis
Wound Healing & Repair GHK-Cu stimulates wound healing across various models by activating tissue remodeling processes. It also helps improve recovery of skin cells after damage from sources like UV radiation or X-rays。This characteristic is very effective in improving skin problems such as acne, eczema, and trauma.
Antioxidant & Anti-Inflammatory&fades spots GHK-Cu  can inhibit inflammatory responses, reduce skin inflammation and sensitivity, and are very effective in improving sensitive skin and allergic reactions. At the same time, they can also inhibit melanin formation, reduce pigmentation such as age spots and freckles, and make the skin more even-toned and radiant.
Improving Skin Barrier&Deeply revitalizes and hydrates the skin
GHK-Cu  penetrate deep into the skin, stimulating cell vitality and enhancing the activity of deep skin cells, keeping the skin soft and elastic. Simultaneously, it promotes hydration of the stratum corneum, maintaining skin moisture and improving dryness and peeling.
Promotes Skin Absorption Due to its small molecular structure and being mostly small-molecule proteins, copper peptides are easily absorbed by the skin. Adding this substance to skincare products can accelerate the skin's absorption and utilization of active ingredients.
Whitening Effect By inhibiting melanin production, copper peptides can also achieve a skin-whitening effect.
Enhances Immunity Copper peptides have the effect of enhancing immunity. They can promote the proliferation of immune cells and the differentiation of lymphocytes, thus improving the body's immunity to a certain extent.

The effects and benefits of GHK-Cu on the skin, and its application in cosmetics 2

Application in Cosmetics: Potential and Challenges
While the benefits are promising, effectively formulating with GHK-Cu presents specific challenges that influence its use in products:

  • Skin Delivery is Key: As a peptide, GHK-Cu needs to penetrate the skin barrier to reach its target cells. Research confirms it can be absorbed into the skin, but advanced delivery systems are often used to enhance this. Liposome encapsulation is a proven method that protects the peptide and improves its delivery into the skin
  • Formulation Sensitivities: GHK-Cu is a delicate, water-soluble compound. Its signature blue color and, more importantly, its biological activity, can be compromised. It is sensitive to low pH (acidic environments), high temperatures, and certain incompatible ingredients that can disrupt its copper-binding structure. Formulators must carefully control pH (often near-neutral) and avoid harsh preservatives or acids
  • High Cost & Concentration Considerations: It is one of the most expensive peptide ingredients. While a 2023 study showed effects with a 0.1% concentration in a mask, efficacy often depends on sufficient dosage and proper delivery. Very low-cost products claiming to contain GHK-Cu may have ineffective amounts.

In summary, GHK-Cu is a scientifically substantiated ingredient that can promote skin repair, counteract signs of aging, and improve barrier function. Its effectiveness in a cosmetic product depends heavily on stable formulation, adequate concentration, and an effective delivery system like liposomes.

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