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NIKOO Chemical - Skincare Raw Material Supply and Custom Solution Specialist for 15 years. 

Unveiling the New Darling of the Beauty Lab! 5D Polysaccharides

5D polysaccharides: A New Path for Skincare Formula Design!

They can meet diverse consumer needs, delivering a unique skin feel experience, emphasizing practicality, and ensuring formulas are both aesthetically pleasing and effective.

Unveiling the New Darling of the Beauty Lab! 5D Polysaccharides 1

【5D Polysaccharides】Scientifically Constructed - Systematically Solving Numerous Skin Problems


Skin Feel Improvement | Multidimensional Moisturizing | Barrier Repair | Immune Regulation | Microecological Regulation

Product information
Item INCI
1 WATER
2 GLYCERIN
3 TREHALOSE
4 EUGLENA GRACILIS POLYSACCHARIDE
5 FUCOSE
6 TREMELLA FUCIFORMIS POLYSACCHARIDE
7 AVENA+SATIVA BETA-GLUCAN
8 XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE
9 1,2-HEXANEDIOL
10 MYROTHAMNUS FLABELLIFOLIA LEAF/STEM EXTRACT

5D Polysaccharide Raw Material Construction Theory

1. Synergistic Barrier Repair Effect of Fucose + Oat β-Glucan

Fucose promotes stratum corneum lipid synthesis (e.g., a 20% increase in ceramides), complementing the FLG gene expression activated by oat β-glucan. Experiments show that the combination reduces TEWL by 35% and improves skin elasticity by 15%.

2. Antioxidant Protection of Tremella Polysaccharide + Trehalose

Tremella polysaccharide exhibits an 80% hydroxyl radical scavenging rate, while trehalose synergistically enhances antioxidant capacity by protecting cell membrane lipids from oxidative damage. In a UV irradiation model, the compound reduced MDA (lipid peroxidation products) levels by 40%.

3. Microecological Regulation of Euglena Polysaccharide + Fucoidose

Euglena polysaccharide promotes the secretion of beneficial bacterial metabolites (such as short-chain fatty acids), synergistically regulating the microecological environment with the antibacterial effect of fucose. Experiments showed that the compound increased the number of Staphylococcus epidermidis by 2 times and inhibited Staphylococcus aureus by 70%.

Background of Five-D Polysaccharide Raw Material Development

1. Overcoming the Limitations of Traditional Moisturizers

Traditional moisturizers (such as glycerin and petrolatum) can absorb moisture or seal the skin surface, but they suffer from problems such as strong greasiness and poor breathability. For example, glycerin mainly increases the content of secondary bound water by absorbing moisture from the air, but its ability to retain free water is limited. While single polysaccharides (such as hyaluronic acid) can bind large amounts of free water, their large molecular weight makes it difficult to penetrate deep into the stratum corneum. This compound system achieves a synergistic effect of "hygroscopic absorption, water retention, and water storage" through a molecular weight gradient design (such as the small molecular structure of Euglena fuciformis polysaccharide and the large molecular network of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide): small-molecule fucose and trehalose penetrate into the stratum corneum to bind water, while large-molecule Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide and oat β-glucan form a physical barrier on the skin surface to reduce water evaporation. Simultaneously, trehalose, through its glass transition properties (high glass transition temperature), stabilizes the moisturizing network and prevents water loss.

2. Market Demand for Natural Ingredients and Functional Compounds

Consumer demand for natural and gentle skincare products is driving the research and development of polysaccharide ingredients. This compound system utilizes microbial-derived Euglena granulata polysaccharide (extracted through fermentation, environmentally friendly and sustainable), plant-derived Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide and oat β-glucan (such as oat β-glucan extracted from oat bran, possessing both moisturizing and soothing functions), marine-derived fucose (extracted from brown algae, with barrier repair properties), and the microbial metabolite trehalose (produced through yeast fermentation, with outstanding anti-drying capabilities). This multi-source combination not only aligns with the trend of green chemistry but also meets the "one-dose-multiple-effects" requirement through multi-target action: for example, fucose promotes stratum corneum lipid synthesis, oat β-glucan activates skin repair genes, Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide scavenge free radicals, and trehalose protects cell membranes from dryness damage.

3. Clinical Needs Driving Skin Barrier Repair

Ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, and other factors easily lead to skin barrier damage, manifested as increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Experiments show that fucose can enhance barrier function by strengthening stratum corneum cell connectivity and lipid membrane stability4, while oat β-glucan repairs barrier structure by activating filaggrin (FLG) and lobelin (LOR) gene expression2. This compound system significantly reduces TEWL values ​​through multi-level repair mechanisms (e.g., fucose promotes ceramide synthesis, and Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide regulates aquaporin expression).

4. Innovative Directions in Microecological Balance Regulation

Imbalance of the skin microecology (e.g., excessive proliferation of pathogenic bacteria) exacerbates dryness and inflammation. Fucose and oat β-glucan in this compound system possess prebiotic properties, selectively promoting the proliferation of beneficial bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and inhibiting pathogenic bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus. For example, fucose indirectly enhances barrier function by inhibiting pathogenic bacteria adhesion to the skin surface; oat β-glucan maintains microecological balance by regulating the activity of immune cells (e.g., Langerhans cells).

Unveiling the New Darling of the Beauty Lab! 5D Polysaccharides 2

Mechanism of Action of Five-D Polysaccharides

1. Construction of a Multi-Layered Moisturizing Network

Synergistic Hydration and Penetration: Fucose (monosaccharide) and trehalose (disaccharide) adsorb moisture from the air through their multi-hydroxyl structures, replenishing free water in the stratum corneum; fine Euglena polysaccharides (molecular weight approximately 10-100 kDa) penetrate deep into the stratum corneum, combining with natural moisturizing factors (NMF) to form a hydrating gel.

Combined Water Retention and Protection: High-molecular-weight Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides (molecular weight > 100 kDa) form an elastic film on the skin surface, reducing water evaporation; oat β-glucan prolongs water retention time by forming a viscous hydrating layer. For example, the water-retention capacity of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides is comparable to that of hyaluronic acid, and performs better in low-humidity environments.

2. Skin Barrier Repair Mechanism

Promoting Structural Protein Synthesis: Fucose and oat β-glucan enhance intercellular connections by activating genes such as FLG and LOR. Experiments showed that the compound polysaccharides increased FLG mRNA expression by 6.57-fold and LOR mRNA expression by 2.40-fold.

Optimizing lipid metabolism: Fucose promotes the synthesis of lipids such as ceramide and cholesterol, improving intercellular lipid arrangement; Euglena spp. polysaccharides enhance barrier function by regulating the activity of lipid transport proteins (such as ABCA12).

3. Immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects

Inhibiting inflammatory factors: Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides alleviate skin inflammation by inhibiting the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors such as IL-6 and TNF-α. For example, Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides reduced IL-6 expression by more than 50% and reduced mast cell activation.

Activating immune cells: Oat β-glucan activates Langerhans cells, promotes fibroblast proliferation, and accelerates skin repair. Experiments showed that oat β-glucan can increase collagen synthesis in fibroblasts by 30%.

4. Regulation of Microecological Balance

Prebiotic Effect: Fucoidan and oat β-glucan provide nutrients for beneficial bacteria, promoting their proliferation (e.g., increasing the number of Staphylococcus epidermidis by more than 3 times), while inhibiting the growth of pathogenic bacteria (e.g., Propionibacterium acnes).

Antibacterial and Anti-adhesion: Fucoidan competitively binds to receptors on the surface of pathogenic bacteria, preventing them from adhering to the skin; trehalose enhances the skin's resistance to pathogens by stabilizing cell membranes.

5. Intermolecular Synergistic Effects

Hydrogen Bonding and Electrostatic Interactions: The sulfate groups of fucose form hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl groups of other polysaccharides, enhancing network stability; the negative charge of Euglena spp. polysaccharides and the positive charge of fucose form a dense gel through electrostatic interactions.

Complementary steric hindrance: High-molecular-weight polysaccharides (such as Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide) fill the grooves on the skin surface, while low-molecular-weight polysaccharides (such as fucose) penetrate into the intercellular spaces of keratinocytes, forming a three-dimensional structure and reducing moisture loss.

Five-D polysaccharides overcome the limitations of traditional moisturizers through multi-dimensional effects such as multi-level moisturizing, barrier repair, immune regulation, and microecological balance. Their development integrates knowledge from multiple disciplines including natural ingredient development, skin physiology, and microecology, and is expected to achieve wider applications in precision skincare and medical aesthetic repair in the future.

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