Plant-Based Emulsifiers for Skincare

1. Soy Protein Isolate (SPI) + Quillaja Saponin (QS)

• Function: This combination creates high-internal-phase emulsion gels (HIPE-Gels) with exceptional stability under environmental stress (e.g., pH changes, ionic strength, freeze-thaw cycles).

• Benefits:

  • Acid Tolerance: QS provides electrostatic repulsion, preventing droplet aggregation in acidic environments.

  • Thermal Stability: Enhances resistance to heating (up to 90°C) and long-term storage.

• Applications: Ideal for pH-sensitive formulations like toners or serums.

2. Hydrolyzed Rice Glutelin (HRG) + Quillaja Saponin (QS)

• Function: These mixed emulsifiers form oil-in-water emulsions with thickened interfacial layers, improving resistance to high salt concentrations and temperatures .

• Benefits:

  • Steric Repulsion: Reduces droplet coalescence under stress.

  • Versatility: Effective in both food and cosmetic applications .

• Applications: Suitable for lightweight lotions and heat-stable sunscreens.

3. Lecithin

• Source: Derived from soy or sunflower.

• Benefits:

  • Dual Emulsification: Stabilizes both O/W and W/O emulsions .

  • Skin Barrier Support: Rich in phospholipids, enhancing skin hydration and barrier repair .

• Applications: Creams, serums, and barrier-repair formulations.

4. Xanthan Gum

• Source: Fermented from plant sugars.

• Benefits:

  • Thickening + Stabilizing: Prevents phase separation in gels and lotions .

  • Synergy: Works with other emulsifiers (e.g., sucrose esters) to improve texture .

• Applications: Lightweight serums and natural moisturizers.

5. Beeswax and Candelilla Wax

• Function: Natural waxes that stabilize water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.

• Benefits:

  • Occlusive Barrier: Locks in moisture and protects against environmental stressors .

  • Cold-Process Compatibility: Ideal for heat-sensitive actives like vitamin C .

• Applications: Lip balms, rich creams, and ointments.

6. Chitosan Microparticles

• Innovative Use: Encapsulates plant extracts (e.g., Sambucus nigra) for controlled release.

• Benefits:

  • Enhanced Delivery: Improves skin hydration (Δ14.5 a.u. in trials) without disrupting barrier function.

  • Sustainability: Biodegradable and derived from crustacean shells or fungi.

• Applications: Anti-aging creams and hydrating masks.

Key Considerations for Formulators

1. HLB Matching: Pair high-HLB emulsifiers (e.g., QS) with O/W systems and low-HLB options (e.g., beeswax) for W/O emulsions .

2. Environmental Resilience: Test formulations under thermal cycling (5°C–40°C) and centrifugation to ensure stability .

3. Synergistic Blends: Combine emulsifiers (e.g., HRG + QS) for enhanced salt and heat resistance.

4. Consumer Preferences: Highlight "clean" ingredients like lecithin or xanthan gum to appeal to eco-conscious markets

Innovative Trends

• Hybrid Systems: Blending natural emulsifiers (e.g., SPI + QS) with synthetic stabilizers for multifunctional textures.

• Fermentation Technology: Used by brands like La Mer to enhance bioavailability of plant-derived actives in emulsified formulations 

Comparison Table